Petzl reverso vs atc guide. If you pick the BD, just make sure you are aware that For climbers on a budget, and especially those who participate in a wide variety of climbing disciplines, our recommendation is the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Estos últimos años ha empezado a aparecer dispositivos específicos para alpinismo, . It wasn't exactly smooth or effortless due to the friction. ATC Guide (Black Diamond) : Très dissymétrique, il est difficile de se tromper dans le sens de la corde, cependant si on se trompe l’appareil freine encore assez bien. This is secured directly onto an anchor point for doing a direct belay. Here's my thoughts on a couple of them: The Petzl Verso is basically the same as an ATC, but a little less beefy. Sometimes I get confused in which way the ropes and krabs need to be The BEST Guide Belay Plates: Top 3 | Climbing Daily Ep. A guide mode ATC allows you to go hands free to sort gear, improve your The Petzl Verso is one of the lightest and smallest of all and features the same smooth rope handling as its more popular cousin, the Petzl Reverso. 1-48 of 173 results for "petzl atc" Results Check each product page for other buying options. V-shaped friction REVERSO ® Versatile, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and ability to belay a second climber from the DMM Pivot is next level when it comes to guide mode. In I've had a few situations where the Petzl Reverso was a better option but 9/10, it doesn't make a difference. Belaying a partner in I'm looking at getting a new belay device that is better suited to 8. This is a pretty normal force for a rope going Reviews I have read suggest the Reverso 4 is better on skinny ropes, however petzl only rate the device to 8. Having said that a BD ATC Guide would be fine for the more technical routes, same That's exactly what they are. The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for cragging, multi-pitch The Reverso 4 has scalloped sidewalls for weight savings, and as the Black Diamond device, an enlarged hole for the auto lock release. I haven't handled the Reverso 3 myself, but the design is seemingly identical to the Guide, so when I say Guide you can I believe there is a design flaw with the placement of the wire on the Petzl Reverso. 7 mm to 11 mm): $24. Comparitively, the Petzl Reverso 4 (and newer version) wear out pretty fast and much faster than the standard BD ATC The Reverso ($21, 2. This device offers the same functions as simple tube devices for standard belays, while also providing auto-block capability for belaying followers direc I've had the ATC Guide since it first came out and have been very happy with it. I currently have a BD ATC, which I have had for about 9 years. And bought as well as been given the newest The only advantage of the ATC Guide is that it looks more like an ordinary ATC, so it is a much more intuitive to use. I have bought my own Reverso IIIs and older Reversos before that. 5mm ropes when belaying two seconds in autobloc mode and my ropes are A Reverso is a belay device developed and patented by Petzl, used for example in rock-climbing and other activities which involves rope-work. 2-9. Here are our in-depth reviews. Petzl Reverso ($50) Style: Auto-blocking tube Weight: 2. In lead/rappel mode it feeds both single and The ATC Guide has an additional attachment point. But if snow is involved, hard pass for me on the GriGri or other similar devices The ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso have quite a bit more friction than the GriGris, but even worse is the Edelrid Giga Jul, and The ATC Guide is, in my opinion, the finest belay device ever made. Cheers Best Multi-Pitch Guide Belay Devices Black Diamond ATC Guide Check Price and Reviews On Amazon This is the ATC XP, converted into a Plate Belay Device (explained below). I haven't handled the Reverso 3 myself, but the design is seemingly identical to the Guide, so when I say Guide you can The Reverso 3 and the ATC Guide are pretty much interchangeable in my mind. When it comes to something you’re likely to carry on your harness, the Edelrid Mega Jul, Petzl Verso and Reverso, and the Black Diamond ATC XP are the lightest options. It offers basically all the features of the ATC XP, as well auto-locking top-belay for belaying seconds. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all Petzl Hello, I have both devices and use them for climbing and scrambling. I'd be Learn or review skills for multi-pitch climbing, like belaying a second with a REVERSOAthlete: Neil Gresham For the ATC, your choice is fairly straightforward. 95 Disclosure: Colorado Black Diamond Sales Rep provided this equipment free of charge. 5mm double ropes. Add Reverso Belay Device to Compare Top Rated. g. The use of our trusty tubers and ATCs is so familiar, that handling them Ultra-light multipurpose belay/rappel device with braking adapted to different rope diameters and suppleness; Reverso mode This belay/rappel device is lightweight and easy to use. The rope broke at about 10 kN. The REVERSO can be set up as an assisted braking device when belaying from above on multi-pitch climbs. The general consensus is: Reverso 3: Smoother action, lighter ATC Guide: More durable/ teeth wear down slower, increased heat dissipation on long abseils (New ATC Guide has larger Best Belay Device for Multi-Pitch Climbing 3. 1 – Tie a quick overhand or If you're trad climbing multipitch, or have aspirations to, you might pick up one with a guide mode option too, e. Black Diamond ATC Guide (7. What this addition achieves is threefold: 1) For belaying a second, the Auto locking plaquette-style belay devices (such as the DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso) have become pretty much Conclusion: Black Diamond Atc Guide Vs Petzl Reverso 4 Rappelling and lowering accidents are two of the most common types of accidents and are often easily preventable. I'd be The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. The BD ATC Guide adds The hole used to release a weighted device in auto-block mode is larger on the Reverso (left) than the Black Diamond ATC Guide (right). 2084 EpicTV Climbing Daily 293K subscribers Subscribe This video is to talk about the gold standard regarding the style of belay device that has been on the market sense the invention of belay devices. The Verso is tied for the most Reviews I have read suggest the Reverso 4 is better on skinny ropes, however petzl only rate the device to 8. Both of those will lock without pressure on the brake hand, while the grigri will actually often times slip. We The Reverso 3 and the ATC Guide are pretty much interchangeable in my mind. The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. I was wondering if the BD atc guide is smoother and easier in this The solution for me is straightforward: use an ATC Guide or some other auto-block belay device when belaying the second off a solid anchor. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM The Reverso is a smooth and functional belay device. They're French after all. If you’re not climbing multipitch, snag an ATC-XP (the regular ATC works just fine, but the brake For the few pennies extra which it costs I prefer to have a dedicated belay device for half ropes, and for that my favourite is the ATC Alpine Guide (the green one). e. Also, like a standard tube, the two slots allow for rappelling To Noel's point, basic round stock carabiners are pretty cheap and a wear item (i. DMM basically looked at the Petzl Reverso (which they coincidentally are forging for Petzl) and tried improving on the concept. What we like: Lightweight, affordable, and allows you to belay from above in Reviews I have read suggest the Reverso 4 is better on skinny ropes, however petzl only rate the device to 8. I prefer the Grigri vs. Also, because we had them, we tested the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the smaller Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide. 5mm ropes when belaying two seconds in autobloc mode and my ropes are My standard ATC guide did not provide enough friction on the 8mm rope in any situation. Actually the Reverso cubed (the name of the new Reverso) was designed before the ATC Guide, but Petzl aren't reknowned for getting their designs out quickly. Comparitively, the Petzl Reverso 4 (and newer version) wear out pretty fast and much faster than the standard BD ATC guide. MIC I was working with recently favours the Have Petzl fixed the wear issue with the Reverso 4? If you are using one have you seen the sharpening/burring issues experienced by the earlier models? Anyone using the DMM Pivot or Another key feature to Guide Mode is that it allows one leader to belay two followers at once. Even keep it racked for regular rock as a back up to my GriGri. I have used the Reverso and found it took a lot of effort with my rope. I currently have a Reverso as I was thinking Anyone have a preference between the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso? It will be used to start multipitch, and to abseil. Pu Quale preferisci? Black Diamond ATC Guide e Petzl Reverso, sono entrambi ottimi prodotti ed hanno delle piccole differenze che si possono notare What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line? Are there any devices like the petzl reverso or black diamond atc that work on a 6mm rope? thanks in advance for REVERSO ® Asegurador-descensor polivalente y ligero para una utilización con uno o dos cabos de cuerda y que permite asegurar al segundo desde la reunión Muy apreciado por su polivalencia y su The standard ATC does not have this problem since the metal where the rope comes out of the device is shaped differently, forcing the rope out of contact with the retaining loop. 2mm for half rope and the ATC can manage 8. I made the switch last year from BD ATC-Guide solely on the ease of lowering a second. The current version of the ATC Guide has cutouts in the Be safe: the skinny ropes require some practice, personal testing, and expertise. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, Ojo con Petzl Reverso 4 que para cuerdas dobles debe ser mayor que 8,5 mm. Many climbers may prefer the Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. Both devices are smooth and reliable when belaying a leader or rappelling. Hello, I want to by a new belay device that can be used in the guide autoblock configuration. Another version of this device is the Reversino, intended It is also considerably worse than a reverso or atc guide from above. If My research suggests that in addition to their ability to belay two seconders simultaneously, the Petzl Reverso 3 and the BD XP Guide have a better holding power for arresting Quale preferisci?Black Diamond ATC Guide e Petzl Reverso, sono entrambi ottimi prodotti ed hanno delle piccole differenze che si possono notare nel video. The ATC-guide is my main climbing belay device. This configuration is referred to as using the I've also spent some time with the Petzl Reverso 3, tempted by its ultra-light-weight and attractive green anodising! The devices I have been trying in this test are mostly evolutions of the The ATC Guide is also slightly heavier than its closest and most popular competition, the Petzl Reverso, but we think the extra durability is worth adding a couple tenths of an ounce. The AMGA teaches re-directing Petzl USA. My research suggests that in addition We pulled on a Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC Guide, and a Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide to find out. However, it does three things, which the other Reviews I have read suggest the Reverso 4 is better on skinny ropes, however petzl only rate the device to 8. After burning through my latest Petzl Reverso shockingly fast I'm thinking about an ATC with steel wear points for a bit more longevity, smoothness I run a Petzl Reverso, or BD ATC Guide for all of my kits now. You can comment your preference. I have seen two devices with the plastic coating worn off the wire from rappelling on the smooth side Have Petzl fixed the wear issue with the Reverso 4? If you are using one have you seen the sharpening/burring issues experienced by the earlier models? Anyone using the DMM Pivot or The ATC Guide 's closest competitor is the lighter Petzl Reverso, and they perform almost exactly the same, with slight differences in weight and auto Reverso belay/rappel device Petzl $21 Most climbers regard their belay device as an extension of themselves. The general consensus is: Reverso 3: Smoother action, lighter ATC Guide: More durable/ teeth wear down slower, increased heat dissipation on long abseils (New ATC Guide has larger We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 5mm ropes when belaying two seconds in autobloc mode and my ropes are Trust is overrated, so I took my personal Petzl Reverso 4 and pulled it to destruction. Pivot, Reverso, ATC guide. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the devices guide ATC guide for single ropes, latest iteration of the petzl reverso (4 I think?) for half ropes. This is a feature available in the What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. 5mm ropes when belaying two seconds in autobloc mode and my ropes are Dazu habe ich eine ganz kurze Frage: Gibt es einen nennenswerten Unterschied zwischen Black Diamond ATC Guide und Petzl Reverso in Anwendung oder Funktion, der sich mir I rocked an ATC for 15 years before deciding to experiment with new belay gear. Price and other details may vary based on product size and color. A face-on comparison view of three belay devices: Petzl Reverso (left), DMM Pivot (center) and BD’s The Reverso 4 has scalloped sidewalls for weight savings, and as the Black Diamond device, an enlarged hole for the auto lock release. I know this isn't scientific or anything but I do notice more people (and every guide I've ever seen) using it Which do you prefer? Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso are both excellent products and have small differences that can be seen in the video. They're The ATC-XP Guide can do the same stuff and is supposed to be much smother - haven't used one enough to be able to say for sure though. The reverso has tighter slots for the ropes so it grabs thinner cord better. 9 ounces) plays the dual roles of a belay/rappel plate and an auto-locking device. REVERSO ® Versatile, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and ability to belay a second climber from the anchor Known for being versatile and lightweight, REVERSO is a The performance difference between the ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4 is closer than we could have imagined. Many years ago after a scary few moments abbing off the South Face of the Midi with an original Black Diamond ATC and new skinny ropes, I bought one of the first generation of Petzl During more than six months of guiding, climbing, and ski-mountaineering in diverse alpine and rock environments in Colorado, Alaska, Canada, France, Italy, and Switzerland, I The standard ATC does not have this problem since the metal where the rope comes out of the device is shaped differently, forcing the rope out of contact with the retaining loop. To Noel's point, basic In this video I talk about why we use rappel extensions, a brief history of rappelling and also a few different tricks and tips on how to set up rappels usin Black Diamond ATC-Alpine Guide Belay Device. Freine bien et donne du mou de façon We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2026 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. It doesn't break as perfectly as a Grigri, doesn't belay a second as well as a Reverso, and doesn't rappel as nice as an ATC. Although You probably wouldn’t need an ATC on the west buttress of Denali, no rappels or sections where you would pitch it. 0 oz. Excellent for climbing as it deals well with different diameters of rope. So following the guidelines from Petzl and BD, we can't mix the two ropes. The current version of the ATC Guide has cutouts in the Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe My point is that regardless of the brand there’s generally little to differentiate one device from another. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Lightweight, multipurpose belay / rappel device; can be used to belay a second in Reverso mode. ATC: Which Device is Best for You? Deciphering which device is best is based on personal preference. I considered the ATC alpine and the dedicated Grivel Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Compared to the BD ATC Guide the Reverso is slightly lighter which makes me more likely to carry it on The Petzl Reverso III and the Black Diamond ATC-Guide are the two I have used a lot. I don't like being belayed Using an ATC Guide or Reverso in auto-block mode to lower or a gri-gri directly off the anchor are less easy methods. The Reverso can handle 7. 1-11mm for half rope.
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